Garbatella is a cool Rome neighborhood south of the city center with great architecture, friendly people and great restaurants you should visit.
One of the unique aspects of Garbatella is in the architecture. The older section of the neighborhood is divided into lotto, which are the housing units that are made up of several buildings around a common courtyard. These gardens are a gathering point for the families that live in the surrounding buildings.
Step through the open gates along the narrow lanes in the heart of the neighborhood and be transported back to another era. The internal yards were envisioned by the urban planners of 100 years ago as green spaces that could be used as vegetable gardens and gathering places. Today they are still filled with flowers and lines of laundry drying in the sun.
Al Ristoro Degli Angel
via Luigi Orlando, 2
The historic trattoria has been a Garbatella staple for decades and specializes in Roman classics paired with an excellent wine list of bottles from Lazio. For pasta, the cacio e pepe served in a crispy Parmigiano bowl and the homemade fettucine with aged cheese and toasted sesame are both excellent, but it is hard to resist the “Garbatella-style potatoes” based on the ones the owner ate as a child — with bay leaf, rosemary and onions.
Ristorante I Tre Fratelli
Piazza Giovanni da Triora 2,
Founded in 1996 by three brothers (the eponymous tre fratelli), this restaurant and pizzeria offers Italian and Roman specialties. It’s impossible not to taste the famous Coda all aVaccinara. At I tre fratelli you can also eat the traditional Roman pizza, cooked in a wood oven,
The restaurant covers an area of 500 square meters, surrounded by a large garden that can accommodate up to 150 guests.
Il Timoniere
Via Francesco Orazio da Pennabilli, 5,
A small trattoria run by Luciana Di Marzio and her daughter Margherita Poduti, which has barely changed in more than 90 years. It is in the basement of one of Garbatella’s so-called alberghi (“hotels”), erected to host Romans who were evicted from the area next to St Peter’s Square when Mussolini built the monumental Via della Conciliazione.
Eataly
Piazzale XII Ottobre 1492
Daily 9am-12am
Down the street from Garbatella’s historic centre behind Piramide metro station is Eataly on Piazzale XII Ottobre 1492, a multi-level complex of glittering glass instantly recognisable. It encompasses a gourmet food market, retail zones, chic open plan food stations and top floor restaurant and workshop area for tastings, events and cookery classes.
Tre de tutto
Via Giustino de Jacobis, 19
Everyday, 7.30am — 1am
tredetuttogarbatella.it
Open from morning until late at night, “Tre de tutto” covers different roles throughout the day: cafeteria, wine bar and cocktail bar. In terms of culinary offerings, however, the protagonists are the classics of Roman and Italian cuisine revisited. A 120-square-meter space structured on two levels, formerly an abandoned bakery, which is substantiated by an expertly constructed mix of veracious spirit and refinement, tradition and innovation.
Er Panonto
Via Enrico Cravero, 10
Thurs — Tue 7pm — 11pm
Opened in 1973 by two Roman friends, “Er Panonto” is a perfect place to try real pizza Romana. Crispy and thin, straight from the wooden oven, pizza romana is available in 25 different types. You can indulge in this unforgettable pizza experience fo only €7 -9. A charming atmosphere and the flavours of the good-old Italian days are available daily except on Wednesday.
Molo 9/12
Piazza Giovanni da Triora 9/12
Cozy mediterranean restaurant, and the fish esexcellent at a very reasonable price.
Tanto pe’ magnà
Via G. De Jacobis 9
At Tanto pe’ magnà it is possible to rediscover the taste of home-made Roman cuisine. In particular, this tavern is well-known for its delicious coda alla vaccinara (oxtail), and also the orecchiette zucchine e vongole (pasta with zucchini and clams). The environment is very simple and the service extremely friendly. During the summer months, there is also the opportunity to dine al fresco.
Li Scalini De Marisa
Via Roberto de Nobili, 17
Tue — Sat 12pm — 3pm, 7.30pm-11pm; Sun 12pm — 3pm
On Via Roberto de Nobili, 17 is a neighbourhood restaurant I come back to time and again for down to earth Roman cooking. Sat below street level with a quaint covered seating area outside, you’ll discover authentic Roman cuisine for a great price. I usually order the strange-sounding but surprisingly delicious tripe in tomato sauce.
Andreotti Alla Garbatella
Via Ostiense, 54 b
Storical café specializing in the delicious, sweet and sticky. Rows upon rows of colorful, sugary treats line its counters, as well as a variety of anything filled or covered with cream or chocolate. The café focuses heavily on the traditions of its methods, as well as the quality of its ingredients, and was in 2012 recognized by the City of Rome as a place of historical interest. This self-proclaimed ‘oasis of quality’, is the place for a filling, sweet breakfast, or just a well-deserved hideout from the merciless, Roman sunshine.
Nero Vaniglia
Circonvallazione Ostiense, 201
Best in Garbatella! Many options of sweets that taste so good.
Very good coffe and maritozzo. And the best part is, its affordable too.
Biffi
Piazza Eugenio Biffi, 11-12
Daily 7.20am — 2am
Young and contemporary, Biffi is the perfect place to visit if you want to dive into the neighbourhood mood. The atmosphere is vibrant, the cocktails great. Especially the unforgettable “Eva” created by local barman Marco Paoletti. “Eva” has won the cocktail competition “Absolute invite” in Milan and was officially presented in the top 10 best cocktails in Italy. Biffi is the only bar in Rome where you can taste the real “Eva”.
